Path of the Pioneers: Bastrop to Austin (Part I)

Mary Starr Barkley's History of Travis County and Austin: 1839-1899 is a go-to, seminal history book on early Austin and Travis County. The Austin History Center's profile on Mary Starr Barkley (AHC holds the Mary Starr Barkley Papers) describes her as a life-long Austinite (1907-1981), whose "roots in Austin extended back four generations".

The first chapter in her book is titled "Path of the Pioneers", her name for the old Bastrop to Austin road. In that chapter Barkley invites the reader to begin their exploration into the settlement of Travis County the same way the early pioneers did: from east to west along the road from Bastrop into Austin. As she so eloquently put it "Why not spend a Sunday afternoon and pursue the same path those early settlers followed .. past the places of those pioneers that are history now -- Wilbarger, Hornsby, Burleson, Rogers, Tannehill, and Manor. The roll call sounds like the roster of the Old Three Hundred".

The next five posts do just that: explore the "Path of the Pioneers" starting in Bastrop, ending in Austin.

Bastrop State Park

As we begin our journey in Bastrop, it's only appropriate to being with Bastrop's namesake. The 1936 Texas Centenial marker located in Bastrop State Park. The marker reads:

Erected in Recognition of the Distinguished Service to Texas of Felipe Entrique Neri, Baron De Bastrop 1770 - 1829. Pioneer Red River empresario. Land commissioner of Austin's colony. Member of the Congress of Coahuila and Texas. In his honor this county and county seat have been named.

As you exit the park, on the right is another historical marker describing another old trail, the Gotier Trace, and straight ahead another marker detailing the early history of Bastrop.

The Gotier Trace historical marker

The Gotier Trace. Originated in 1820s. Crossed the present counties of Austin, Washington, Fayette, Lee, Bastrop; joined San Felipe, capital of Stephen F. Austin's colony, with Bastrop. Marked by James Gotier, a settler who (with several in his family) died in an Indian massacre near this trace in 1837. Like most early Texas roads, this was only a marked route which travelers could follow-- dusty in droughts, boggy in rains. From such traces, wagon roads and cattle trails, Texas has developed over 67,000 miles of fine paved highways-- a system recognized as nation's finest.

Early History of the City of Bastrop. Long before white men arrived, this region was inhabited by Tonkawa and Comanche Indians. In 1691 the first Spanish explorers crossed this territory en route to east Texas. From their route, parts of “El Camino Real” (the King's Highway) were blazed, thus placing Bastrop on a major early travel artery. Because El Camino Real crossed the Colorado River here, this was a strategic spot. In 1805 the Fort “Puesta del Colorado” and accompanying community were founded here to protect commerce on the road. In 1825 this area became “Mina,” one of the first settlements in the colony of Stephen F. Austin. It was named for revolutionary leader Xavier Mina. In the years that followed, many members of its first 100 families served in the Texas Revolution (1836), the Mexican War (1846-1848), and were active in political life in the Republic and State of Texas. In 1837 when the town incorporated, the name was changed to “Bastrop” to honor the Baron de Bastrop, influential early land agent and statesman. The city was also designated county seat in 1837. From 1851-1870, this was seat of Bastrop Military Academy, an important Texas school. First courthouse was built in 1853; present one in 1883 on the same spot.

Bastrop Historic District

Exiting Bastrop State Park you are now on Highway 21, The Camino Real, and headed for the crossing of the Colorado. The city has placed decorative markers in the sidewalk telling the story of Bastrop and El Camino Real.

Town laid out 1832

Indian Conflicts

Old Austin Highway, FM 969

After crossing the bridge over the Colorado take a right on Old Austin Highway. The name says it all, this is the old road to Austin. This will lead you to SH 71. You briefly get on SH 71 going north, but soon take a right onto FM 969. You are back on the old road to Austin. 

Nash's Ferry Crossing of the Colorado

From SH 71 FM 969 travels north to cross the Colorado once again. This is the site of Nash's ferry crossing (30.167139,-97.404501). Signs on FM 969 direct you to the flag pole that marks the crossing.

Flag pole and plaque mark the crossing.

Plaque at base of flagpole reads: Nash's Ferry Crossing. John Dempsey "Jack" Nash. "Amiable landlord of the Colorado Valley". 1854

 An article from The Bastrop Advertiser, March 1907, details the burning of the "old Nash house" and provides a glimpse of earlier times at the ferry: 

The old Nash house, 8 miles north-west of Bastrop near what is known as the Nash Ferry, was burned last week. In early days this house was known as a stage stand, where travelers en route to and from Austin to the coast got their meals, the old Captain Jack D. Nash fed them of the best he had, and never did one feast at his table without speaking its praise. The house was built in the [eighteen] forties, of the best pine-heart timber, felled and sawed south-east of Bastrop ... In those early days it was truly a hospitable home for the weary traveler.

A view from the bridge over FM 969 provides a great view of Nash's ferry crossing